Extreme High Swell Events on the Moroccan Atlantic Coast

2.0 About High Swell Events » 2.1 Main Components of a Wave

Wind is the primary cause of wave development. It puts initial stress on the water surface and creates capillary waves, which start the process of transferring energy from the air to the water.

Merchant ship Noble Star in North Pacific storm seas

Waves have three main characteristics:

  • Height: The distance between the trough and crest
  • Length: The distance between two troughs or crests
  • Period: The time that it takes for the wavelength to pass by a point
Water wave anatomy - wave length, height, etc….

Waves are also characterized by their steepness. This is defined as wave height divided by wavelength (S = H/L). So, a steep wave can either have a high wave height or short wave length.

Question

A high, short wave has steepness.

Applying the formula S = H/L, a large height divided by a short length yields high steepness.